dine | REVIEW
with Swiss chard and mashed potatoes.
The salmon at Mix Bar and Grille,
served with cardamom rice, gingered
bok choy and a sake yuzu glaze, turned
out to be a better rendition, its silken flesh
a striking foil to the crispy skin. Mix on
Georgia Avenue is the second location
of a restaurant with the same name in
Potomac. Pedro Matamoros, the former
chef at Silver Spring’s 8407 Kitchen Bar
and the shuttered Nicaro, oversees the
cooking at both places.
With a large bar and 10 television
screens, the newer restaurant seems
more a late-night drinking destination
than its older sister. But as in Potomac,
the food is a mix of spot-on offerings (the
salmon, plus warm and creamy crab dip,
a grilled oyster appetizer special and an
A-plus apple pie) and so-so dishes (an
overcooked, below-average burger; fettucine with shrimp that needed more zip).
Another newcomer with ups and
downs is Sligo Cafe, a comfortable
neighborhood spot with an ambitious
drink menu that includes house-made
Limoncello and ginger beer, plus local
hard ciders. Among the small plates
I sampled from the summer menu, I
quickly polished off the Gochu chicken
wings; they had the perfect balance of
sweet and spicy from their namesake
Korean pepper, soy sauce and chives.
And while Brussels sprouts are as ubiq-
uitous as construction cones around
town, Sligo Cafe’s lacy-crisp version,
with bacon, sunflower kernels and
lemon vinaigrette, proved to be a stand-
out. On the downside: soggy homemade
potato chips and smoked lamb ribs with
an off-putting flavor. But don’t skip des-
sert; the restaurant does an adult riff on
s’mores, and it’s childhood and summer
all over again. n
Carole Sugarman is the magazine’s food
editor. To comment on this review, email
ITALIAN KITCHEN, 8201 Fenton St.,
com. Pizzas, $7.99 to $19.99; calzone,
pasta and paninis, $7.99 to $11.99.
A.G. KI TCHEN, 931 Ellsworth Drive,
Appetizers, $9 to $17; burgers $12 to
$19; entrées $16 to $29.
ALL SET RESTAURANT & BAR,
8630 Fenton St., 301-495-8800,
$8 to $16; salads and sandwiches,
$14 to $23; entrées, $17 to $34.
MIX BAR AND GRILLE,
8241 Georgia Ave., #200, 301-326-1333,
Appetizers, $7 to $16; entrées, $11 to $27.
SLIGO CAFE, 923 Sligo Ave., 301-565-
2233, sligocafe.com. Small plates, $5 to
$12; entrées, $15 to $22.